Dermocosmetics: Interview with Ing. Martin Homolka – development department manager of Manufaktura

Bára Čechová, creative manager, talked to Ing. Martin Homolka, development department manager of Manufaktura, about differences between ordinary cosmetics and dermocosmetics.

What is the difference between ordinary cosmetics and dermocosmetics?

From a professional point of view, it should be noted at the beginning that our legislation does not recognize the term “dermocosmetics”, i. e. its effects, composition or tests are not defined. Producers and retailers approach designation of products as dermocosmetic individually.

These products are usually intended for face and body skin with dermatological problems. We conceive them as cosmetics preparations suitable for regular care of problematic skin that is prone to hypersensitiveness, drying off, atopy and others…

The products are characterised by exceptionally gentle formulae that minimize the risk of allergic reactions, soothe, hydrate and regenerate, have a lipid-replenishing effect and protect the skin. They are dermatologically tested for sensitive skin.

Who are dermocosmetics suitable for?

They are ideal for people with hypersensitive or atopy-prone skin... 

We included mainly the products from the Dead Sea collection in this category, because we know that they provide long-term help to our customers suffering from atopic eczema, psoriasis or acne.

What are the main challenges in developing dermocosmetic products intended for sensitive skin?

For us, developers, the biggest issue is to combine requirements for high efficiency, emphasis on natural ingredients, pleasant texture and maximum stability – all that with regard to maximum skin friendliness.

What is the difference between the process of developing dermocosmetic products and regular cosmetic products?

The development process itself is not essentially different. Due to the above-mentioned reasons, development of suitable dermocosmetic formulae may take a bit longer than e.g. development of preparations for normal skin. The testing phase is more time-consuming because the problems with sensitive skin are very individual.

What ingredients do you use in your dermocosmetic products?

We like to use ceramides, which play a key role in the care of hypersensitive skin, because they promote the skin barrier function, hydrate, soothe and help repair.

Other great ingredients that we like to use include regenerating Dead Sea minerals, hydrating hyaluronic acid, soothing beta-glucan, squalene and panthenol, emollient almond oil and glycerin, nourishing and protective shea butter or antioxidant vitamin E.  

Are these products specially tested?

Assessment of the skin tolerance in humans is carried out in compliance with the Cosmetic Product Test Guidelines for Assessment of Human Skin Compatibility, COLIPA, Bruxelles, 1997, The European Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association. During testing, reactions in terms of erythema (skin reddening), oedema (swelling) or flaking in tested persons are assessed.

 Based on the results it is concluded that the tested sample has no potential irritation potential for the skin. Subsequently, the labelling of the products can include statement such as “Dermatologically tested” and “Suitable for sensitive skin”.

What experience do your customers have with Manufaktura dermocosmetics?

We are happy that our products from the Dead Sea collection have been used also by customers suffering from skin problems, such as atopic eczema or psoriasis, for a long time and they swear by them. 

We have many positive reviews on our online store and we regularly receive satisfied reactions from a wide range of our shops via our staff, who we are in close touch with.